This thing is light-weight, rock-solid and super-adjustable, to compensate for the AKM's lack of milspec-ness. Mounted a Vortex Diamondback 4x12 on my RAS-47 and have shot it repeatedly at 100, 200, 300m (yeah, all the armchair experts gonna hate on the RAS, but it has a great barrel and printed 7" groups at 300m). I obviously used loc-tite when I put the top rail on. Holds zero, and doesn't even lose zero when I use cantilever function to pop it off and put it back on. My friend was super impressed and bought one and is equally happy. Going to put one on my Saiga 74. They are expensive, but worth it.

This rail fits my m&m 10 like a glove it is well thought out

The fit, finish and quality is exceptional. The scope mount fits very closely to the top of the dust cover and the side of the receiver



As the previous review mentions, you will need to purchase the upper half, which is sold seperately.



It is almost too nice to mount on my rifle.



Very happy with this purchase.

When you open the box the quality of this rail is readily apparent.



The hex screw is extremely to adjust, one or two small adjustment had the rail sliding easily on and locking positively in place.



Don't forget, you need to purchase an upper to complete the system. I purchased the AKR upper for maximum flexibility for use with multiple sights.

It’s really hard to review just one part as these are designed to be a two piece system, so I’ll include both here and post them at both the lower rail and upper rail reviews. I put these on a new Arsenal SAM7SF. Both rails are surprisingly light. Putting it on at first was a little tight as the Arsenal has a sling swivel right in the way so you have to turn it just right to get the lower rail to slide on. It was loose after it finally slid on, so following directions; I removed it and tried to adjust it. The spring loaded floating anchor was really stiff. The adjustment nut fits into a hex recess on the floating anchor. I found the best way to depress the anchor to allow adjustment was to use a 5/16” nut driver to get it moving. Once it moves, hold it down with a finger and use the nut driver to adjust as necessary. Turn clockwise to tighten the attachment and reverse to loosen. Make sure the adjustment nut goes back into the hex recess under spring pressure when you are finished. Got that adjusted and the lower rail locked up tight.

Next the upper rail is attached in a convenient position on the lower rail. The upper rail can move laterally in its slots which allow the mount to be positioned exactly over the bore. Call it a gross windage adjustment. I measured the clearance between the bottom of the upper rail and the rifle’s rear cover to be .118”. Four 8-32 socket head screws are furnished to secure it. I suggest using just two until everything is where you want it. The rifle can be shot with just two screws to make sure it is centered. Once you are happy with the position, you can install the other two screws and Loctite them if you want.

The upper rail also comes with two roll pins which are used to “stake” the mount for “extreme duty”. To do that you have to drill two .125” holes in the lower rail aligned with the “staking” holes. Of course that is not really staking like on a 1911 grip bushing, but I digress. Once you drill those holes, you are stuck with the position of the upper rails as it would be pretty tough to get the roll pins out as they would be going into a blind hole unless you drill those .125” holes all the way through. My opinion is if the unit is ever subjected to such a load that the screws won’t hold, it will likely be destroyed whether or not there are roll pins in place.

Overall the quality and finish is great. I had no problem getting the upper rail to be centered over the barrel. The Picatinny style rings I used fit just fine with a tight lock up. The AK is not a tack drive but I expect that it will make my late 60’s eyes shoot a bunch better with a low power scope rather that those tiny irons.

It’s really hard to review just one part as these are designed to be a two piece system, so I’ll include both here and post them at both the lower rail and upper rail reviews. I put these on a new Arsenal SAM7SF. Both rails are surprisingly light. Putting it on at first was a little tight as the Arsenal has a sling swivel right in the way so you have to turn it just right to get the lower rail to slide on. It was loose after it finally slid on, so following directions; I removed it and tried to adjust it. The spring loaded floating anchor was really stiff. The adjustment nut fits into a hex recess on the floating anchor. I found the best way to depress the anchor to allow adjustment was to use a 5/16” nut driver to get it moving. Once it moves, hold it down with a finger and use the nut driver to adjust as necessary. Turn clockwise to tighten the attachment and reverse to loosen. Make sure the adjustment nut goes back into the hex recess under spring pressure when you are finished. Got that adjusted and the lower rail locked up tight.

Next the upper rail is attached in a convenient position on the lower rail. The upper rail can move laterally in its slots which allow the mount to be positioned exactly over the bore. Call it a gross windage adjustment. I measured the clearance between the bottom of the upper rail and the rifle’s rear cover to be .118”. Four 8-32 socket head screws are furnished to secure it. I suggest using just two until everything is where you want it. The rifle can be shot with just two screws to make sure it is centered. Once you are happy with the position, you can install the other two screws and Loctite them if you want.

The upper rail also comes with two roll pins which are used to “stake” the mount for “extreme duty”. To do that you have to drill two .125” holes in the lower rail aligned with the “staking” holes. Of course that is not really staking like on a 1911 grip bushing, but I digress. Once you drill those holes, you are stuck with the position of the upper rails as it would be pretty tough to get the roll pins out as they would be going into a blind hole unless you drill those .125” holes all the way through. My opinion is if the unit is ever subjected to such a load that the screws won’t hold, it will likely be destroyed whether or not there are roll pins in place.

Overall the quality and finish is great. I had no problem getting the upper rail to be centered over the barrel. The Picatinny style rings I used fit just fine with a tight lock up. The AK is not a tack drive but I expect that it will make my late 60’s eyes shoot a bunch better with a low power scope rather that those tiny irons.

As far as technicality goes this lower mount section from RS Regulate will actually attach rather securely(but incorrectly) on my 5 month old Yugo / Serbian Zastava N-PAP M70 imported by Century arms.



If you have an Century arms N or O Pap rifle with the top portion of the rifles mounting rail being 1.5 inches longer than the bottom, this Mount will not fit all the way on to the rail it'll be about a quarter of an inch to the rear from full contact for both the upper and lower sections of this mount. The only fixes for that are to remove a small section of the top rail attached to your Ak or cutting into your new lower mount to allow for further forward travel.